Pair of tortoiseshell (carey) hoop earrings

Name/Title

Pair of tortoiseshell (carey) hoop earrings

Entry/Object ID

2025.25.16

Description

A matched pair of large open-hoop earrings made of mottled brown-and-amber tortoiseshell, each a flat, narrow band bent into a near-circle with a small gap. The ends are thinned/tapered at the opening (one end scarf-worked) to take an ear-wire or post fitting. Translucent figured material with the characteristic dark-brown blotching over honey-amber ground.

Item Type

Earrings - Pair

Context

Purchased at an artisan market in Cuba.

Collection

María Teresa Cornide Hernández collection

Acquisition

Accession

2025.25

Made/Created

Place

Country

Cuba

Region

Caribbean, Central America

Notes

Date: Cannot be confirmed within 1959–1990 and may fall outside it. No marks or datable features; Cuban carey craft spans the pre-1959 period through the late 20th century, so the period is open. (Undatable.) 1980s according to the donor. Place of Origin: Not marked on the object. Tortoiseshell (carey) work is a traditional Cuban craft; Cuban attribution rests on that craft tradition and on provenance rather than any mark. (Tentative.)

Materials

Material

tortoiseshell

Material Notes

Materials: Tortoiseshell (carey) — hawksbill sea turtle shell (Eretmochelys imbricata), per the collector's identification. Technique: Hand-worked tortoiseshell: a strip cut, heat-softened, shaped into a hoop, and the ends thinned/scarf-joined; polished. Fittings (posts/wires), if any, not visible in the image.

Condition

Overall Condition

Fair

Relationships

Related Person or Organization

Person or Organization

Maria T. Cornide Hernández

Notes

Owner

Related Places

Place

City

Havana

Country

Cuba

Region

Caribbean, Central America

Notes

Purchase

Research Notes

Notes

Carey (tortoiseshell) is the shell of the hawksbill sea turtle, the only natural source of commercial tortoiseshell, worked for centuries into combs, eyeglass frames, picks, and jewelry. The material is thermoplastic — softened with heat and pressure-worked — which is consistent with the scarf-joined hoop construction here. CITES / legal note (important for this object): the hawksbill was listed on CITES Appendix I in 1977, banning international commercial trade. Cuba was historically among the largest tortoiseshell suppliers to Japan and continued a legal domestic hawksbill harvest (capped at 500/year) until 2008, when the hunt ended; Cuba also maintained a shell stockpile and twice sought (1997, 2000–02) to downlist its hawksbills for trade, withdrawing the proposals. Practical implication: genuine carey items face strict restrictions on any cross-border movement, loan, or sale — relevant for catalog/provenance documentation even though display and study are unaffected.

Notes

Carey craft has deep roots in Cuban material culture, with tortoiseshell worked into combs, hair ornaments, jewellery, and decorative objects for centuries. After 1959, carey goods continued to be produced and, after 1978, sold through state-sanctioned artisan markets, occupying an ambiguous position between cultural heritage and the international trade restrictions imposed by CITES, which listed the hawksbill as a protected species from 1977.

Created By

María A. Cabrera Arús

Create Date

May 23, 2026

Updated By

María A. Cabrera Arús

Update Date

June 14, 2026