Name/Title
Coat, MorningEntry/Object ID
G2011.051Description
Men's morning or riding coat is speculated to be made of brown and white 2/2 twill S-twist singles, white warp, and brown weft which appears finer than the white so the white shows more and the twill is not steep. Very fine yarn with a curly disposition. Densely filled. Speculated to be made out of cashmere or merino wool. The uneven beat suggests hand weaving but the yarns are very even, fine, and lofty, well filled but not like broadcloth. Entirely hand-stitched. Double-breasted with medium wide notched lapels, collar, and revers covered to the button stand with quilted black silk Italian; front lapel and body padded lightly with brown cotton. 3 buttonholes of graded size on either side, but 5 buttons were sewn on each side. Opening designed to hang apart, in a flaring curved line to the side, then the skirt falls straight down the side front over the hip to the side of the leg at the knees, squared; the full skirt, on a slightly dropped waist, is a sort of hybrid of tails and frock skirt. 2 buttons in center back. Side pockets at the waistline with large flaps gathered on. Long narrow sleeves with 3-button plackets. Skirt front lined with dark brown cotton; no pockets in 'tails'. Sleeves lined with light brown cotton, and the back with brown cotton printed with tiny blue figures. Exceptional coat, in cut and fabric, tells the story of hand vs machine spinning and weaving.Collection
Bruce and Susan Greene Costume CollectionCategory
Adult, Male
Historic Costume
Clothing/Dress/Costume Details
Article of Clothing/Dress/Costume
CoatClothing Sex
MaleTextile Details
Fabric
SilkMaterial
Silk twill, cashmere, WoolLining
CottonColor
Gray