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2009.062 bathing costume?, heavy linen/cotton 1815-1830 Chemise-like garment, that seems intended for bathing. Entirely hand stitched, made of very heavy plain weave fabric having a linen warp and cotton weft MID*. Appears to be sewn with linen thread. Fabric used with warp going cross-ways so there is lapped seam on the top of the shoulder, utilizing 2 selvage edges for thin layers. Sleeves cut so one has a selvage incorporated in narrow felled armscye seam. All other seams are felled, and the hems are turned twice, so it is impossible to tell the exact width of the fabric which is at least 42”. However there is a seam across the front only, at hip level which does not divide the garment in half, the top being from a width about 3” narrower than the bottom one. Wide scoop neckline with thin, plain weave cotton facing that forms a casing for a plain weave cotton tape drawstring tacked in place in CB, which emerges in front through 2 eyelets. Short, straight sleeves with underarm gussets, no side gores in body but slight A-line shape from shoulder to hem. Initials “M * B[?]” in tiny cross-stitch, faded red cotton or linen. CHEMISE ADULT F Bathing ? Fine Very good. Faint stain in CF. Apparently used, but tough as nails- the cloth is a bit pilled and the initials faded and worn. The underarm gussets are worn at the crease. laundered 10/09 Duff purchased it at the Ontario Mall (Canandaigua) I expect it was made ‘crossways’ to avoid the need to add side gores and minimize waste. It seems appropriate for bathing because it is so heavy-duty, impervious, no see-through or cling! Also the drawstring neckline adds modesty not needed in a chemise. It lacks the fullness of side gores, another advantage in bathing one would think. Also, the hip seam would not be inconvenient. Upon ‘mapping’ it out, it looks as if this piecing resulted from laying out 3 garments with all shoulders and all 6 sleeves on selvage, necessitating one body being cut in half as seen here, using about 6 yards. I suppose it is also possible that it is a stiff and awkward ‘peasant’ or ethnic chemise., heavy linen/cotton, hand stitched, plain weave
