Name/Title
Bodice and SkirtDescription
A - Beige Taffeta Skirt:
Beige silk taffeta bustle skirt with train; 24" waist, waistband; 11" placket side opening turned back - hand sewn original hook and eye fastening replaced with very large hook and ring. Skirt fully lined with beige polished cotton chintz reinforced under train with buckram or stiffened gauze. Six pleats onto waistband, 38" length in front. Across the bottom of skirt applied pleated ruffle box pleated 2 inner pleats reversed and another box pleat, repeats itself 14 sets. Two inches below top of ruffle across front of skirt 3/4" regular pleat one box pleat - 1-3/4" turn down folding to machine stitch line, double triangle fold similar to an envelope. Other side of ruffle has 3/4" pleat. Skirt front has 3 gore panels. Center panel width is 7-1/4" at waistband and 18" width at ruffle top. Side front panel is 3-1/2" at waistband and 12" at ruffled edge. Repeat same on other side.
53" length of train. Fan shaped accordion pleats set-in gusset - 13-1/2" from top to bottom, 15 pleats - flat panel of 10-3/4" center back 16" and has 17 pleats. Next flat panel and then a repeat with 14" and 14 pleats - next is 10-1/2" and 17-1/2" wide 13 pleats, flat panel 13" wide, 1-1/2" hem; set-in gusset 10-1/4" high, 12 pleats.
Large beige satin bow 5" width with 1-1/2" fringe (silvery gray)
Underlining 16-1/2" under flat panels.
Condition: Poor, large stains (cotton twill tapes in triangle at each side seam to hold up bustle arrangement).
B - Bodice Dressy Dress Tops:
Jacket - gold brocade fitted evening jacket; 3/4" length belled sleeves, (sleeve is longer on outside of arm). Additional sleeve decoration has wide pleated taffeta ribbon extending from end of bell sleeve (decoration consists of light tan taffeta and brocade). Cording outlines a square sleeve's arm's eye in back. the front arm's eye is a normal rounded front arm's eye. V neckline with 1-1/2" lapel collar, collar is narrower at top (1-1/2"); two self cording outlines collar edge. Back of collar decoration is 5 taffeta 1/4" width doubled taffeta ribbons about 3" long with self covered buttons at the end of ribbon extension. Front bodice opening of 9 brocaded (self covered) buttons; 4" tan bows attached at the base of the V front. Stomacher extended: Large taffeta box pleats in center back at bottom edge of jacket; shaped in a V with 3-1" width ribbon; extending under pleats are 3 ribbons - 2 are 6" long on either side of middle ribbons of 8" length. Major work is handmade; cording machine stitched. Condition: small stain on right sleeve.
Brocade silk taffeta portion of skirt - deep camel tan - pale tan fringe trim only on one side - 57" X 46" pattern of flower and leaves - 2 panels.Acquisition
Notes
Donor: Ellie Anstaett of Glenview
