Name/Title
Moiré Silk Empire Waist DressEntry/Object ID
1970.5.1Description
One-piece machine-made moiré (watered) silk empire waist dress. The silk is embroidered with a leaf motif. The bodice fastens at the back with hooks and eyes and is constructed to look like a jumper over a high-necked under-blouse. This under-blouse is made of cream silk with an overlay of green tulle and maroon silk cuffs on the sleeves. The high neck has two metal collar stiffeners inside. Maroon silk-covered buttons decorate the bodice at the shoulder seams and diagonally across the front. The dress features an A-line skirt which is attached to the bodice with small gathers at the front and back. The waist's seam is decorated with a maroon silk ribbon and two bows at the back. The bodice is lined in white silk while the skirt is unlined. The dress is machine sewn except for the hem.Context
The Cunningham family treasured and preserved this gown, attributing it to one of two possible owners: Ann Pamela Cunningham (1816–1875) or her niece, Emma Floride Cunningham (1841–1919). Recent research suggests it belonged to the latter given that the materials and style of dress more closely aligned with those popular in the early twentieth century. When Ann died decades before that, she bequeathed her possessions and Rosemont—her plantation in Laurens County, South Carolina—to her nephew Clarence Cunningham (1854–1932). At the same time, she also left a small parcel of land to Floride. While Clarence’s share of the property was later inherited by his nephew, Hugh Cunningham Banks (1871–1930), Floride bequeathed her possessions and parcel to her niece and adopted daughter, Mary Floride C. Burney (1890–1956). Mary, in turn, passed this dress on to her daughter, Pamela Burney Webster (1916–2006), who donated it to Historic Columbia in 1970.
Emma Floride Cunningham was a member of the Daughters of the American Revolution and represented South Carolina on the National Board of Lady Managers at the 1893 World’s Columbian Exposition in Chicago. Notably, she was also a leader in the Southern Woman Suffrage Movement. In one of her public addresses, she criticized South Carolina politicians, suggesting they "prostitute humanity for their own selfish ends." Despite the shift in focus among some suffragists from advocating for the vote for African Americans to prioritizing women's suffrage, Floride remained a staunch supporter of the Black vote.Clothing/Dress/Costume Details
Article of Clothing/Dress/Costume
DressClothing Sex
FemaleTextile Details
Material
Silk, Tulle, Cotton, MetalColor
Red, Green, WhiteDimensions
Length
53 inDimension Notes
Bodice = 13"
Skirt = 40"
Waist (under bust) = 30"
