Dress and Capelet

Clothing/Dress/Costume

-

Historic Columbia Foundation

Name/Title

Dress and Capelet

Entry/Object ID

1972.205.1 A-B

Description

Handmade brown, grey, and black plaid silk empire waist morning dress with gigot, or leg o' mutton, sleeves and matching capelet. The bodice fastens at the front with hooks and eyes and is decorated with seven brown silk thread-covered buttons. The shoulders are decorated with brown buttons and epaulets. The skirt is attached to the bodice with numerous gathers. The capelet has brown silk fringe and a bobbin lace collar.

Use

A morning dress like this was worn by an elite woman during morning or daytime activities, such as eating breakfast, writing letters, visiting with friends and relatives, and taking morning walks. The matching capelet suggests this ensemble was intended to be worn outdoors as well as within the comfort of the wearer's home. The style of the sleeves and the inclusion of the matching capelet is consistent with fashion trends of the 1840s.

Context

This dress is thought to have belonged to Harriet Flud Hampton (1823–1848), the eldest daughter of Wade Hampton II (1791–1858) and Ann Fitzsimmons (1794–1833). Harriet lived at her family's Millwood Plantation in Columbia and was named after her grandmother on her father's side, Harriet Flud (1752–1794). The name Harriet continued to be used in the Hampton family for several generations. Although she was born into an affluent, politically powerful family, Harriet, like most other women in the nineteenth century, had little agency during her lifetime and none in shaping her public memory. For an unknown number of years, Harriet and her three sisters were victims of sexual abuse perpetrated by their uncle, James Henry Hammond (1807–1864). In 1843, twenty-year-old Harriet confided this information to her father, aware of the potential long-term consequences that coming forward with allegations about any man, much less the sitting state governor, would have to her reputation. While rumors circulated, exact details of this abuse and the fallout for both the Hamptons and Hammonds are only known through the private diaries of Hammond himself. The public campaign mounted by Harriet's father to shame and drive Hammond from Columbia must have impacted his daughters’ reputations. Neither Harriet nor her three sisters ever married despite being advantageous matches for any man of their standing. Still, Harriet’s courage in standing up for her and her sisters reveals a clearer picture of who she was. Harriet, who purportedly had been ill for many years, passed away in 1848 at the young age of twenty-five.

Clothing/Dress/Costume Details

Article of Clothing/Dress/Costume

Dress

Clothing Sex

Female

Textile Details

Fabric

Silk

Material

Metal, Lace, Cotton

Color

Red, Green, Gray, Black

Article of Clothing/Dress/Costume

Cape

Clothing Sex

Female

Notes

Capelet.

Made/Created

Date made

circa 1840 - 1848

Dimensions

Dimension Description

A: Bodice

Width

16-1/2 in

Dimension Notes

Waist: 35"

Dimension Description

B: Skirt

Width

42-1/2 in

Dimension Description

Overall Length

Length

60 in

Relationships

Related Person or Organization

Person or Organization

Harriet Hampton