Dressing robe

Clothing/Dress/Costume

-

Historic Hudson Valley

Name/Title

Dressing robe

Entry/Object ID

VC.95.11

Description

Dressing robe of cream silk damask with large floral pattern of roses; rectangular-cut standing collar with three deep knife pleats sewn into the shoulders and extending into the front collar; back shoulders fall into two large box pleats; three-quarter-length sleeves constructed without shoulder seams, ending in cream double lace cuffs; open center front; hand-hemmed down both sides of center front and at bottom hemline; skirt and bodice cut separately and hand-sewn together in straight seam above natural waistline; two cream synthetic ribbons sewn to outside side waist seams, used for closure; deep knife pleating at outer waist sides with gore inserts on each side; unlined, with visible selvages; narrow band of blue, black and white plaid silk ribbon appliqued above waist seam, creating channel; two bound eyelets at center back.

Collection

Van Cortlandt Manor Object Collection

Clothing/Dress/Costume Details

Textile Details

Material

Silk, Synthetic, cotton (?)

Made/Created

Artist Information

Artist

Unknown

Attribution

Maker

Manufacturer

Spitalfields

Date made

circa 1740

Notes

Dates: , 1815-1830

Dimensions

Dimension Description

Overall

Width

59 in

Length

55 in

Diameter

127 in

Dimension Notes

Display Dimensions: 59 x 55 x 127 in. (149.9 x 139.7 x 322.6 cm)

Condition

Notes

Remarks: Good. Has some yellow and brown (mildew?) stains throughout and silk splitting in a few places. Creasing at hemline.

Relationships

Related Person or Organization

Person or Organization

Unknown

General Notes

Note Type

Curatorial Remarks

Note

Material is probably a Spitalfields silk c. 1740s. Cut of the back of the gown is similar to an 18th-century sack/robe a la francaise. Was this originally a 1740s dress? Original cataloging suggested robe has been reworked "probably from 1740s dress": "skirt was formerly attached to bodice in 1 1/2" knife pleats which are still impressed in fabric. Impressed pleats also appear at sleeves." But the original cataloging also mis-identified the visible brown striped selvage as other strip of "printed fabric" applied to the dress. Original cataloging also suggests that the two embroidered eyelets at back were for, "at one time, tapes held within inner plaid ribbon may have emerged to be pulled and tied. Inside waist has two modern cream silk ties, which when drawn, cause the shoulder pleats to fall into the sack-back line. Bottom front hem has impressed creases suggesting original hem has been let out, possibly several times, and additional fabric sewn in." Men's banyans rarely have the box pleats at center back top, their presence here may be evidence this garment was remodeled from an earlier gown. Alterations have been made, although possibly not to the length, more so to the waist and back with the eyelets and waist seam. Both synthetic ribbons and one lace cuff (clearly late 19th century) were removed in 2013 [Jessa J. Krick, 12/9/2013].

Note Type

General Note

Note

Diameter is of inside of skirt and width is of armspan.

Note Type

StorageNote

Note

Home Location: Historic Hudson Valley, Union Church, Storage, Shelf 02C