Child’s homespun linen shirt

Clothing/Dress/Costume

Historical Collection at the George Hail Free Library

Name/Title

Entry/Object ID

2024.09.09.13

Description

A homespun linen shirt made for a small child, likely dating to the early 19th century. It features simple construction from rectangular panels, short sleeves with gussets, and a squared neckline. This shirt has the initials “HJM” cross-stitched in the middle of the front, indicating the owner or wearer for laundering purposes. This shirt would have been worn under a dress as an extra barrier layer between the body and the outer garment, preventing sweat from migrating to the outer garment or providing an added layer of warmth.

Use

Shirts like this would have been worn by either a girl or a boy, as both genders wore gowns until boys reached the “breeching” age, or between the ages of 2-8 and usually after successful toilet training.

Collection

DeWolf/Merchant Collection

Acquisition

Source (if not Accessioned)

John Chaney

Clothing/Dress/Costume Details

Article of Clothing/Dress/Costume

Shirt

Clothing Sex

Unisex

Textile Details

Material

Linen

Label/Inscription/Signature

Type

Label

Location

Front of shirt

Transcription

HJM (Hannah Jolls Martin) (1839-1880) Mother of Mary Merchant DeWolf

Translation

H.J.M.[erchant]

Material/Technique

Label

Lexicon

Getty AAT

Concept

unisex clothing

Dimensions

Height

11-1/4 in

Width

12-3/4 in

Location

Box

Box 12

Cabinet

Display Case 102

Room

Charles Whipple Greene Historical Collection

Building

George Hail Free Library

Date

September 9, 2024

Condition

Overall Condition

Good

Notes

Overall good condition with acidification and yellowing due to age throughout. Some areas of creasing due to improper storage.

Recommendations

This piece would benefit from aqueous cleaning with a reduction bleach to correct the pH. Caution would need to be taken prior to bleaching to ensure that the red dyed yarns utilized in the cross-stitched initials do not bleed. The shirt should be dried flat to prevent creasing.

Valuations

Valuation Type

Estimate

Value

$30.00

Date

Jul 23, 2025

Relationships

Related Person or Organization

Person or Organization

Mary Merchant Dewolf

Create Date

September 9, 2024

Update Date

March 27, 2026