Name/Title
Mrs Wm Sanders Dress Cutting Course Lesson 5Entry/Object ID
2005.09.01.21Scope and Content
Double page news paper style article. Tow collumns titled Mrs Wm Sanders Dress Cutting Course. This article is lesson #5 there are drawn images of Mrs and Mr Wm Sanders. The revers Bottom of the 2nd page has what looks like flowers printed in black.
Transcription :
Mrs.WM Sanders' Dress Cutting Course
Invented in 1899, Improved in 1905
I
HAVE improved my Dress Cutting Course so it can be taught at home bv mail better than by personal instructions. It- can be taught in from 2 to 10 weeks, charge no more than making of a dress. To be paid by cash Or installment plan. I teach you a perfect course in dressmaking, from taking a measure to finish. I will personally examine all lessons, for who can instruct as well as the inventor! No experience necessary. No adv. genuine without these photos. A reward given to anyone that can prove that this improved bourse is not the best course being taught, either by mail or personal Instructions, and will be taught by no one except myself, the inventon at
MRS. WM. SANDERS' DRESS CUTTING SCHOOL
Write to-day for particulars. STRATFORD, ONT., BOX 159
RULES-Keep at work until you can do it without much thinking.
LESSON 5.
Sleeve-i.
When taking measure you must always know what style of sleeve you are going to cut. If for shirt waist sleeve with plain band cuff you would cut sleeve at bottom the width of cuff shorter; if for puff sleeve place tape line around the arm to see how full around to allow, also how long puff would want to be, allowing to droop over. If pleats are in width or length allow for them before cutting by doubling goods under. In explaining sleeves the black marks are where and how you should place your tight lining. If sleeve is not lined cut shape of lining on paper as you must always have a fit to go by. For sleeve No- 1, see black marks which are the tight sleeves by placing them together even from top to elbow at back seam. We have a sleeve fitted at top and a small puff at wrist. If you want a loose sleeve at top place sleeve even as far apart from top to elbow as you wish for fullness If more fullness is wanted at bottom make curved line deeper. In cutting sleeves in one piece always mark at top of sleeve the width of under part of sleeve as it is always put plain in the arm's eye and will give you a better idea where to commence full-ness at top.
Sleeve-2.
Sleeve 2 is a sleeve with fullness at top and a little loose at elbow and hand, shown in shirt waist No. 1. Red mark is the shape of sleeve, black is tight lining. We join elbow and make difference by allowing at both sides. The spring at top from elbow up gives fullness in width by raising top higher than the lining gives fullness in length and is needed in all sleeves that are full either at bottom or top
Sleeve-3.
Sleeve 3 is the leg o'mutton. It is placed together from the bottom as high as it will go without one line crossing the other. While in this position , draw same front seam as tight lining, cutting to fit at top of underarm and making a half circle around the top. This sleeve can be made much larger by commencing the same where fullness is started, at both sides and top and cutting a wider circle on outside of red top. All these sleeves can be made with or without tight lining. When basting lining in join lining together up back seam and press; next place lining together with goods even up the side of under-arm and baste from hand to top, then baste across just below the elbow, now down through centre of bottom and around the sides, (see short lines for bastings.) Next flat bast up other side and join seams together commencing at top, baste top of under-arm plain, gather up or pleat all fullness on top of lining of sleeve even all around. Either can be made without lining.
Sleeve-4.
Sleeve 4 is a puff, or if a couple of puffs divide even or leave one puff smaller than the other by marking off like this one. First always see how much fullness is wanted, next how long to make puff. The bottom part of this sleeve is the linings covered as far as puff is sewed on, or if not lined, goods must be cut out the same shape and size as tight lining or place tapes from cuff to arm's eye. Mark on this where you would sew on puff, cut puff by placing as far apart as fullness is wanted, but having it an easy distance apart same at top as at elbow. Top of back lines must always be on the straight at top, (see black line X) the linings are not kept straight you will have trouble with your sleeves twisting. When I say place even across at top of back seams I mean all puffs as leg
o'mutton should be even together or straight across at bottom, bides of puffs are nearly always cut straight but curved at back of sleeve at bottom as the puff always falls more in back than in front. All full sleeves are also raised at top but never under-arm, (see green mark for puff of waist No. 2, Lesson 3 ) Now join linings together, front and back, stitch and press. Of course sleeve is covered at bottom for long cuffs before stitching, join sides of puffs together, place front seam of sleeve to seam and puff and gather all around, sewing fullness around sleeve, not having as much on under-arm piece. Sew this on from inside of puff so stitches won't show. You can make a neater job of it this way. Next gather top and full on upper part of lining, after which sleeve is ready to be faced ; face by bias piece of your facing material by stitching and turning up to hem. No matter where fullness is wanted allow in the same way. Cuffs can be put on same time as facing, or separate- In getting large or small sleeves, etc., it all goes in with measures ; so when you measure a large arm your draft is for a large sleeve, but when child's measures are used it is a small sleeve. It isn't how large or small it should be, it is how large or small the fit or draft is that you go by.
Work to be sent back.
Cut out sleeves 1, 2, 3, and the puff of 4. Be sure to pin them all together, mark them and send draft .of measures you cut by as long as you use blank paper as linings. Newspapers will do very well for upper goods. Use these measures:-
Around Arm. Wrist. Shoulder to Elbow.
13 6 1/2 13
Elbow to Wrist.
10
Explain how you would flat baste and put sleeves Nos. 3 and 4 together.
Be sure you learn your work so well you can cut the sleeves you send to school without looking at drafts I send you.
[end]Collection
Patterns CollectionCataloged By
Whit, ElizabethLexicon
Nomenclature 4.0
Nomenclature Primary Object Term
PatternNomenclature Sub-Class
Needleworking EquipmentNomenclature Class
Textileworking T&ENomenclature Category
Category 04: Tools & Equipment for MaterialsLOC Thesaurus for Graphic Materials
DressmakingLocation
Location
Container
Box 5Shelf
Shelf 19Room
Collections RoomBuilding
M.V.T.M.Category
PermanentDate
November 7, 2023Location
Container
Box 2Shelf
Shelf 7, Shelf 7Room
Collections RoomBuilding
M.V.T.M.Category
PermanentMoved By
Whit, ElizabethDate
August 24, 2017Location
Container
Box 5Shelf
Shelf 19, Shelf 19Room
Collections RoomBuilding
M.V.T.M.Category
PermanentMoved By
Whit, ElizabethDate
August 24, 2017Location
Container
Box 2Shelf
Shelf 12, Shelf 12Room
Collections RoomBuilding
M.V.T.M.Category
PermanentMoved By
Whit, ElizabethDate
July 29, 2016General Notes
Note
Status: OK
Status By: Cotter, Ellen
Status Date: 2022-02-08Created By
admin@catalogit.appCreate Date
July 29, 2016Updated By
admin@catalogit.appUpdate Date
November 12, 2023
