Name/Title
Mrs Wm Sdanders Dress Cutting Course lesson 4Entry/Object ID
2005.09.01.17Scope and Content
Mrs Wm Sanders Dress Cutting Course Lesson 4, Shoulder seams, 2 collumns with info about the course on it. Drawn images of whom are labled to be Mrs Wm Sanders and Mr Wm Sanders on teh top aboce the title.
2nd page is continued info and has the image of a bouqet of flowers printed on the bottom. Staple holes in the center top.
Transcription :
Mrs.WMSanders' Dress Cutting Course
Invented In 1899, Improved in 1905
I
HAVE Improved my Dress Cutting Course so it can be taught at home by mail better than by personal instruction. It can be taught In from 2 to 10 weeks, charge no more than making of a dress. To be paid by cash or Installment plan. I teach yon a perfect course in dressmaking, from taking a measure to finish. I will personally examine all lessons, for who can Instruct an wall as the Inventor! No experience necessary. No adv. genuine without these photos. A reward given t.o anyone that can prove that this improved Course Is not the best one being taught, either by mail or personal Instructions, and will bo taught by no one except myself, the Inventor, at
MRS. WM SANDERS' DRESS CUTTING SCHOOL
Write to-day for particulars. STRATFORD, ONT., BOX 169
RULES-Keep at work until you can do it 'without much thinking.
LESSON 4.
You should put from seven to eight hours on each Lesson at least.
To get the shape of Yokes :-
Always place your shoulder seams together even at the neck and lay flat on table. If for lined waist use lining, if for unlined the paper pattern. The reason we draw them by the lining is so they will be made to fit the person the lining is cut for. Next draw shape- On the draft is the outline of a red, green and blue yoke. These yokes would be cut without a shoulder seam. If a shoulder seam is wanted draw in same way but unpin lining at the shoulder to allow for seam. Always remember that the marks you draw should be correct, so you must leave one quarter inch for seams to turn under, for a drop-shoulder extend over the sleeves at shoulder.
Berthas : -
All berthas are cut in the same way. They are generally put at the bottom of the yoke, but if they are cut from the neck they are placed on the same. Here is a red and blue bertha. Now, if you wanted one that rippled full at bottom and was perfectly plain where sewed, we cut a plain one on a piece of paper first, and slit the paper bertha open in several places from top to bottom. Now place the pieces even together at top and swing each piece apart at bottom, then you can't help but have a bertha rip-pled at bottom and plain at top- The outside may be shaped any way you think, points or scollops or any desired effect, but the top or where it is sewed to the waist is always the same. For cutting them in points or scollops, etc , cut out first on a piece of paper, then double paper together even at top as many times as you want points. This will give you each point the same length and width ; if for full bertha do it the same way ; if for one that is longer in front than back you can't do this, but you can double it once so they will be the same on each side. Yokes are done in same way as you draft on one side of lining only.
Collars:-
To cut plain stand-up collar draw a rectangle half inch longer than half of collar, and 1 1/2 inches deeper, (see lines 1, 2, 3, 4 on draft-) Draw lines 1 and 2 half inch longer than collar and lines 3 and 4, 1 1/2 inch deeper than you want collar, dot "a" on line 4, 1 1/2 inches from corner of lines 1 and 4, dot "b" on line 3, 1 1/2 inches from corner of lines 2 and 3, dot "c" on line \.y inches from corner of lines 1 and 3. Draw curved line with rule from "a" to "c" and from corner of lines 4 and 2 to dot "b". Next a straight line from "c" to "b" (see mark red); this will give pattern of half a stand-up collar. Cut out on a piece of canvas to fit to neck when fitting waist. If there is also a roll coat collar as shown in figure 2, Lesson 3, with or without revear, cut a piece of canvas by shape of collar at base of neck where it joins the coat, the rest of it rough, larger than you think you will need it, (see mark blue,) leaving centre of back on straight or double fold of goods; if no seam in back place dot ''b" in centre of collar to centre back seam at neck, and pin on neck ; if for waist or coat all along the neck as far as it goes Now turn over to roll and pare outside edges any desired shape ; if a revear goes on at same time have it cut on a piece of paper as explained in Lesson 3, and pin on the collar when it is in position. Leave revear and collar pinned together until they are cut out, so the revear and collar will be in one piece. Have top and facing of goods, or whatever you are going to make with, also canvas, cut the same size- Place right sides of goods toge- ther and stitch around the edges, turn over, stitch on right side with machine and slip stitch the under or facing by hand.
To cut a Sailor collar, (see red on draft,) place shoulder seams together even at neck, and half inch apart at shoulder so that it won't draw at shoulder over sleeve. Place centre of back seam on straight edge of a piece of paper and cut out shape of neck (any lay-down collar is cut the same way.) Close at neck or draw a line from shoulder to where it meets in a V, down front or any desired opening. Now unpin your paper, and when fitting waist you can cut your collar any desired shape you wish, or before fitting by drawing the shape around outer edge. When cutting collar always place centre on the double fold of goods. The lower part of a
stand-up collar is always the shape of the band put on waists when collars are separate from waist
Girdles:-
To cut a deep girdle to shape, draft front and back by the measures on a piece of paper; place all pieces together even at the waist line and draw any desired shape you wish; every seam and dart may be put in by separating pieces and covering lining with canvas and cloth. Next baste pieces together, or it can be cut by having a seam up the centre front and back only, by leaving pieces pinned toge-ther and cutting goods on double. If no seams are wanted in a shaped belt the pieces of lining must be cut out, canvassed and put together, and when fitting waist pin the shaped girdle on. Take a piece of goods on the bias and pin it on lining form, all the way round, it will heed pinning well, but can easily be done as the goods stretch. Never try to stretch a bias piece over the lining except when you are fitting.
Cuffs
To cut the circular cuff (see red draft.) Draw a rectangle 6 by inches, mark these lines i, 2, 3 and 4- Dot up on line 31^ inches from corner of lines 3 and 4, mark dot "a,'' dot "b" on line 4, 4 inches from corner of lines x and 4, dot "c" on line 1, 2% inches from corner of lines 1 and 4 Draw curved line with rule from "a" to "b," "c" to "b" and from "c" to corner of lines 2 and 3. This gives half of a flare cuff. You can easily make it deeper or narrower. Shape top any desired shape Plain cuff bands are on the straight, cuff can be made by placing two pieces of goods even together at right side, one piece canvassed and stitched around outside edges with machine and turned over or cut canvas the right size of cuff when finished. Cut goods half inch larger all around, turn goods over edges of canvas and face All stitching on cuffs or collars should be done before facing is put on.
Work to be Done.
1-Draw a draft of front and back from meas-ures given in Lesson 2. From it cut out these pat-terns-a round yoke 5 inches long in centre of back and 4 inches in front. One to be closed in centre of front with shoulder seams, the other to be closed in back and having no seam on shoulder.
2-From the bottom edge of this yoke cut a plain bertha to be closed in back, having a point 6 inches deep in front, back and at top of each shoulder.
3-Also cut a plain rippled bertha to fit around same yoke, plain at top and bottom to be 5 inches deep all around.
4-Draw a stand-up collar for neck 12 inches but don't cut it out of rectangle.
5-Draw a rough roll collar, but have it perfect at bottom where sewed on coat.
6-Cut out a sailor collar 7 inches deep in back, cutting out a V in front 7 inches from neck on front line.
7-Cut out half of shaped girdle shewing every seam, to be 5 inches deep in back, 1^ inches below waist line and 3^2 inches above, 1 inch above and below waist line at sides, making sides 2 inches and 5 inches in front, 2^ inches above, and 2^ inches below waist line. Pin each piece even together at seams.
8-Cut a circular cuff 3 inches deep and 9 inches around the bottom where sewed on bottom of sleeve.
After cutting all patterns, pin them together with the linings you cut them by and send to school.
[end]Collection
Patterns CollectionCataloged By
Whit, ElizabethLexicon
Nomenclature 4.0
Nomenclature Primary Object Term
PatternNomenclature Sub-Class
Needleworking EquipmentNomenclature Class
Textileworking T&ENomenclature Category
Category 04: Tools & Equipment for MaterialsLOC Thesaurus for Graphic Materials
DressmakingLocation
Location
Container
Box 5Shelf
Shelf 19Room
Collections RoomBuilding
M.V.T.M.Category
PermanentDate
November 7, 2023Location
Container
Box 2Shelf
Shelf 7, Shelf 7Room
Collections RoomBuilding
M.V.T.M.Category
PermanentMoved By
Whit, ElizabethDate
August 24, 2017Location
Container
Box 5Shelf
Shelf 19, Shelf 19Room
Collections RoomBuilding
M.V.T.M.Category
PermanentMoved By
Whit, ElizabethDate
August 24, 2017Location
Container
Box 2Shelf
Shelf 12, Shelf 12Room
Collections RoomBuilding
M.V.T.M.Category
PermanentMoved By
Whit, ElizabethDate
July 29, 2016General Notes
Note
Status: OK
Status By: Cotter, Ellen
Status Date: 2022-02-08Created By
admin@catalogit.appCreate Date
July 29, 2016Updated By
admin@catalogit.appUpdate Date
November 11, 2023
