Dress

Object/Artifact

-

Saco Museum

Name/Title

Dress

Entry/Object ID

1970.4.1

Description

Cream wool dress with red and green printed floral pattern. Constructed in one piece. The front-closing bodice is V-shaped with piping at the waistline and neck, 20 brass hooks and eyes on front neck opening, gathers across front shoulders, piping on side bodice seams. The skirt has a modern tape sewn into the waistline which now ties at the front with an 8" opening. The last 2" at the bottom of the sleeves is open. Fabric width is 38 1/4"; 1/8" seams on the skirt panels. Bodice and sleeves are lined in linen. Hem currently is 3" deep and sewn with a running stitch. The right upper sleeve has been pieced as part of the construction process; the lining covers the pieced seams. The sleeves have been let out at the seam and patches of matching fabric sewn in. Those seams are machine sewn, as are the seams at the armscye, since widening the sleeves required their removal from the bodice and reattachment. The original darts appear to have been let out and the new ones were machine sewn. The balance of the garment all appears to be hand-sewn.

Made/Created

Date made

circa 1846

Dimensions

Length

52-3/4 in

Dimension Notes

17" drop shoulders 20" sleeve length 7" diameter sleeve bottom 25" waist 37" length of skirt

Material

printed wool or wool blend

Interpretative Labels

Label Type

Cultural/Historical Context

Label

While some of the construction features of this garment are typical of the 1840s, others are not. The long pointed and pleated bodice was fashionable at mid-decade, as was the fine piping on the seams. The sleeves are quite narrow and cut on the bias, as was usually the case. However, this dress closes up the front—a feature not generally found in women's dresses of the period. The skirt construction is also unusual. Instead of cutting a deep V-shaped opening at the front of the skirt and pleating it into the bodice all the way around, the dressmaker chose an easier method. She simply gathered the skirt material at the front and let the bodice point lie unattached over the underlying fabric. Since this dress was not made by a particularly skilled seamstress, it is quite possible that it was homemade. Lydia Jane Gray is supposed to have worn it when she married John Haley Rose of Biddeford in 1846. John was a stone cutter, so the couple was not wealthy and Lydia would have almost certainly made her own wedding dress.