Label Type
Cultural/Historical ContextLabel
During the Victorian period, following the lead of Queen Victoria after the death of her husband, Prince Albert, in 1861, mourning rituals became more elaborate and rigid. The style of morning clothes followed the current fashionable cut and fit, but usually used different materials. Black crape, a gauzy silk or wool fabric, was required in the first stage of mourning, with no ornamentation or other colors, followed by a gradual lightening of the weight of materials and the allowing of some light-colored trim and jewelry through the later stages. The length of the stages was determined by how closely one was related to the deceased. As the 19th century drew to a close, some of the formal restrictions of dress began to loosen. However, that relaxation of standards does not seem to have affected mourning dress. If etiquette manuals are any indication, the rules for proper mourning may, in fact, have gotten stricter. The combination of the silk moiré fabric, light chiffon bodice decoration, and white lace trim at the throat probably indicates that this garment was worn in one of the later stages of mourning. It is also possible that the dress had nothing to do with mourning at all, and that it was owned by a woman who simply enjoyed the timeless elegance of a black dress.Label Type
Cultural/Historical ContextLabel
Though the history of this dress is not known, it fits well within the rules of proper nineteenth century mourning wear. The combination of the silk moiré, or watered silk, fabric, the floaty chiffon bodice decoration, and the white lace trim at the throat probably indicates that this garment was worn in one of the later stages of mourning. All black it might be but for the barest touch of white at the throat, yet there are enlivening touches as well. Beautiful rosette spirals made of the moiré fabric grace the skirt, and pleated bands of the same fabric march up the forearm, finished with more spirals to add interest. This dress is restrained, but most definitely elegant.