Embroidered textile

Name/Title

Embroidered textile

Entry/Object ID

2024.9.8

Description

Miao embroidered textile with panels of various curvilinear geometric motifs, with each panel separated by an embroidered strip of purple fabric. Central motif is the Jiyu bird, a legendary creature in Miao folklore. The stitch used to fill the areas inside couched motifs, which looks a bit like a French knot, is the Miao double-twist knot stitch, a stitch unique to the Miao. The outline couching is made with wrapped threads (gimp). Both stitch types are highly decorative and durable at the same time.

Textile Type

Embroidered Panel

Use

Important decorative section on a festival costume sleeve.

Context

Miao embroidered motifs act as a language, which can be used to identify distinctive subgroups, as there is no Miao written language. Brightly colored threads made of silk, cotton, and sometimes horsehair, are used to adorn textiles with geometric motifs often relating to the natural world. Miao embroidery techniques are highly complicated, often using complex stitches and dimensional designs, with girls learning the craft from their mothers at a young age. Miao embroidery utilizes abstract imagery next to more familiar motifs like flowers, fish, and butterflies. The double-twist knot stitch is made by twisting double loops together without securing with an actual knot. It is generally used in a cluster and held together by an outlining couching stitch. This is one of the most sophisticated techniques used by the Miao. Before stitching begins, a paper template may be applied to the fabric panel, stabilized with bamboo sticks, and then the design would be outlined over the paper using couched wrap thread.

Category

Embroidery

Acquisition

Accession

2024.9

Acquisition Method

Purchase

Made/Created

Time Period

20th Century

Place

Village

Qiandongnan Miao and Dong Autonomous Prefecture

Province

Guizhou

Country

China

Continent

Asia

Ethnography

Cultural Region

Country

China

Continent

Asia

Culture/Tribe

Miao People

Notes

From a Miao subgroup living in the Kaitang area of Qiandongnan.

Lexicon

Getty AAT

Concept

embroidery (visual works)

Color

Blue, Purple, Green, Pink, Orange, Teal

Location

Box

Box 2

Cabinet

Object Cabinet

Room

Studio

Research Notes

Research Type

Researcher

Person

Ellie Nowak

Date

2024

Notes

"One Needle, One Thread: Miao (Hmong) embroidery and fabric piecework from Guizhou, China" by Tomato Torimaru.

Research Type

Scholar

Person

Selina Ben

Date

Apr 2026

Notes

Shared detailed identification and contextual information via email.