The comfortable side of couture -- The garment within the garment -- Making sense of interfacing -- Techniques of haute couture -- Class all the way -- Patch pockets: plain, fancy, and false -- Perfecting the lapel -- Techniques of a woman's tailor -- Beating the buttonhole blues -- How Madame Gres sculpts with fabric -- A dressmaker extraordinaire -- Improving the bottom line -- Clothing connections -- Balenciaga -- Koos, the master of collage -- Handsewing stitches -- Coming to grips with the slide fastener -- The jacket that really gets around -- Stalking the perfect raincoat -- Born to shock -- Historic chic -- Rei Kawakubo.