Kothali dowry bag panel

Name/Title

Kothali dowry bag panel

Entry/Object ID

2024.9.4

Description

Front panel of a kothali dowry bag. Mostly white with black panel at the bottom, covered in various graphic embroidery motifs in vivid colors and small shisha mirrorwork. Edge trimmed with black binding. Top has 14 small button closures. Motifs on this panel appear to be from the Kachhi Rabari subgroup.

Use

Created by brides to hold dowry items for husband's family.

Context

A kothali is a smaller version of the kothalo, a rectangular dowry sack which is elaborately embroidered and sometimes quilted at the top, and used to carry dowry items to in-laws. These bags were made by Rabari women, a culture of nomadic herders who now live scattered throughout the Kutch, Saurashtra, and North Gujarat regions of Gujarat State in India, and in western and southern Rajasthan State. Rabaris are divided into distinct territory specific subgroups with certain distinguishable traits, but who share common beliefs and values, and have a common heritage and sense of identity. In Rabari marriage culture, both bride price and dowries are required. The dowry is usually made up of livestock, kitchen utensils, cash, clothing, and embroidery, given to the groom's family in these bags. Rabari embroidery is characterized by chain stitches in bright colors. Embroideries made for marriage are particularly bright and sparkling, denoting marriage as a bright and celebratory moment. Embroidery styles vary from subgroup to subgroup, and motifs have specific meanings and related purposes, and together can be used to tell stories of the past and present.

Category

Embroidery

Acquisition

Accession

2024.9

Acquisition Method

Purchase

Made/Created

Time Period

20th Century

Place

Country

India

Continent

Asia

Notes

Early to mid 20th century (source: Material Culture Auction House)

Ethnography

Cultural Region

Country

India

Continent

Asia

Culture/Tribe

Rabari

Lexicon

Getty AAT

Concept

bags (generic containers), embroidery (visual works), mirrors

Search Terms

mirrorwork embroidery, shisha embroidery

Interpretative Labels

Label Type

Auction Label

Label

"3 Kothali dowry bags, India, early/mid 20th c." Relates to objects 2024.9.3 and 2024.9.5.