Embroidered silk jacket and skirt

Clothing/Dress/Costume

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BLUE: The TATTER Textile Library

Name/Title

Embroidered silk jacket and skirt

Entry/Object ID

2025.10.11

Description

Qing Dynasty floral embroidered jacket and tie-on skirt in yellow silk damask, with colored silk and metallic threads. Jacket and skirt both have pale pink lining. Skirt has pleated side panels.

Context

This sumptuous silk ensemble would have been worn by a young Han noblewoman of the Qing Dynasty, the last imperial dynasty in China. Each embroidery motif represents a benevolent wish for the wearer: peonies and lotus symbolize beauty and purity, with lotus pods acting as a wish for many children. Bats, like those on the sleeve cuff, represent wealth and marital bliss, as do butterflies when paired with flowers. Perhaps the wearer was a newlywed or bride-to-be. The matching skirt and short jacket, or aoqun, were specific to the Han, the largest ethnic group in the world, who maintained their distinct style and culture through the changing of dynasties. The flowing fabrics and easy, draped silhouettes reflect Confucian principles of balance, movement, and fluidity. The pleating style on the skirt creates an effect similar to fish scales, which was especially popular in the late 19th century, suggesting this aoqun was made sometime between 1850 and 1912. Despite wear and staining from age, nearly every carefully laid satin stitch remains neatly anchored, a testament to the mastery of the embroiderers.

Category

Clothing

Acquisition

Accession

2025.10

Clothing/Dress/Costume Details

Article of Clothing/Dress/Costume

Jacket

Clothing Sex

Female

Textile Details

Fabric

Silk

Material

Silk, Metallic threads

Color

Yellow, Blue, Pink, Black

Made/Created

Artist

Unknown maker

Date made

circa 1850 - circa 1900

Time Period

Late 19th Century

Place

Country

China

Continent

Asia

Ethnography

Cultural Region

Country

China

Continent

Asia

Culture/Tribe

Han

Lexicon

Getty AAT

Concept

embroidery (visual works), jackets (short coats), skirts (garments), womenswear

Parts

Count

2

Parts

Jacket and skirt

Location

Rack

Garment Bag 17, Garment Rack 2

Room

Studio

Rack

Garment Bag 18, Garment Rack 2

Room

Studio