Name/Title
Booklet, Shaler, Lube Tips by RisloneDescription
Lube tips by Rislone. A small booklet telling about Shaler Rislone products. The booklet is 4" X 6".
Lube Tips by Rislone
LUBE TIPS is a compilation of information which has been gathered from sources such as lubrication consultants, refinery technical reports, Rislone Racing Teams, automotive service shops and mechanics.
We have strived to collect and answer the most frequently asked questions, even though some of these questions overlap into other automotive problems such as overheating, engine noises, and fluid leakage because in one way or another, all may be linked to lubrication.
We trust you will find this information interesting and useful for the care and performance of your engines ... automotive, recreational vehicles, farm equipment, and small engines of all types.
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BASIC FACTS ABOUT LUBRICATION LUBRICATION DEFINED
Lubrication,
Physical Description: Small booklet advertising Rislone products. 4" X 6"
Extended Description: Lube tips by Rislone. A small booklet telling about Shaler Rislone products. The booklet is 4" X 6".
Lube Tips by Rislone
LUBE TIPS is a compilation of information which has been gathered from sources such as lubrication consultants, refinery technical reports, Rislone Racing Teams, automotive service shops and mechanics.
We have strived to collect and answer the most frequently asked questions, even though some of these questions overlap into other automotive problems such as overheating, engine noises, and fluid leakage because in one way or another, all may be linked to lubrication.
We trust you will find this information interesting and useful for the care and performance of your engines ... automotive, recreational vehicles, farm equipment, and small engines of all types.
1
BASIC FACTS ABOUT LUBRICATION LUBRICATION DEFINED
Lubrication, briefly, represents the complete separation of two moving parts by a film of oil having sufficient body or strength to withstand various pressures without squeezing out from between the moving parts.
Lubricating oil provides a protective film between moving parts because it has a given amount of adhesion and penetration. It consists of a mass of tiny, round globules - minute balls which have a tendency to roll when movement occurs. Consequently, the surface is slippery and the rolling action of these tiny round globules lessens friction.
OIL FILM
The proper thickness of an oil film for adequate lubrication has never been determined. It is generally known, however, that any film which will completely separate the moving parts is adequate for safe lubrication.
PHYSICAL SPECIFICATIONS OF LUBRICATING OIL
The commonly used specifications are . . . Gravity, Viscosity at 100° F. and at 210° F., Flash Point, Fire Point, Pour Point, Color, Emulsification, Residue, Acidity, and Sulphur Content.
COLOR of petroleum oil is described in terms of color by reflected or transmitted light. The color of the oil is of little value, because it does not indicate quality nor does it indicate the viscosity, body, or lubricating value.
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POUR POINT - Petroleum oil thickens and becomes more or less plastic when chilled. The temperature at which the oil just barely flows is known as the pour point. It indicates the temperature below which it may not be possible to pour oil from any given container. The size and shape of a container or the force exerted upon the oil and the nature of its physical structure when solidified, affect its tendency to flow. The pour point of an oil does not indicate a temperature at which you necessarily enjoy easy starting. That is why many oils do not permit easy starting at 30° above their registered pour point.
GRAVITY merely represents the weight of a measured volume of oil. It is of importance in the control of refining operations because the test is easily and quickly made and furnishes information useful for production control. To the dealer or consumer it has no value.
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VISCOSITY - The viscosity of an oil is the measure of its resistance to flow. Generally speaking, the thicker the oil, the slower it moves.
Viscosity is determined by the number of seconds required for a given quantity of oil at a given temperature (generally taken at 100° and 210° F.) to flow through a pre-determined orifice. There are several types of apparatus for taking viscosity readings. The Saybolt viscosimeter, generally used today, measures the length of time necessary for a given amount of oil to flow through the orifice of its calibrated container at various temperatures.
Viscosity is probably the most important single property for lubricating oils. But, the requirements of automotive engines, from a viscosity standpoint, vary widely. As a result, there can be no set rule as to the proper oil viscosity for every type of automobile. Experience, however, has proven that it is more desirable to use an oil of low viscosity than one of high viscosity (the only objection to this practice is the possibility of greater oil consumption).
Viscosity affects the thickness of the oil film only when the space between the moving parts is abnormally large. If the engine parts are closely fitted and a heavy or very viscous oil is used, there is every possibility of poor lubrication. Such oil, due to its heavy body, cannot enter between the closely fitted parts.
Oil film requirements are not always the same for an engine. We may have a healthy oil film on a bearing while climbing a hill, but if the engine starts to detonate or knock, a heavier strain or pressure is put on the bearings. This tends to squeeze the oil out, thereby decreasing the thickness of the film.
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FLASH AND FIRE TESTS - The so-called flash point of an oil is the temperature to which it must be heated in order to give off a vapor that forms an inflammable mixture with air. At this point the vapors will flash but not burn steadily. The fire point however, is the temperature to which the oil must be heated in order to make the vapors flash and then burn continuously.
EMULSIFICATION - The tendency of an oil to mix or emulsify with water is measured with the emulsification test. In automobile engines, where the possibility of water getting into the crankcase is remote, the emulsification test has little value.
CARBON RESIDUE - The carbon - residue test determines the comparative carbon forming tendencies of lubricating oils. It does not indicate the amount of carbon which may be deposited on pistons or in cylinders from any oil.
ACIDITY - Practically all oils contain substances which have acid characteristics. A proportion of these substances present in an oil is known as "organic acidity." These acid compounds are natural constituents of crude oil and their presence in finished lubricating oil is not an indication of poor refining. Acidity, as generally reported in the better grades of oil, is not significant and does not reflect on the quality of the oil.
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FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS ABOUT RISLONE AND LUBRICATION
What is Rislone?
First of all, Rislone is a lubricating oil and is so taxed by the government. You may think this is an odd statement, but it is not. Ring Seal, the Shaler Company's viscosity improver, like all VI's is not considered or taxed as a lubricating oil. Other products based on kerosene and furnace oils are not taxed for they are not lubricants.
Now, added to the lubricating oil in Rislone are special solvents and dispersants that are designed to dissolve and absorb varnish, gums and sludge found in engines. Dirt particles are then trapped in the oil filter, but the gums and varnish came from the oil in the first place and as such are "reinstated" in the oil as lubricants.
I've noticed that once an engine starts to get dirty inside it goes in a hurry. True?
Yes. Once enough deposits are formed to clog oil passages, stick piston rings and interfere with good valve action, etc., the oil in the crankcase is destroyed rapidly by blow - by and dilution. New oil in the crankcase just doesn't have enough additives in it to dissolve and disperse present build - ups and then protect your engine for thousands of additional miles. The deposits start rebuilding rapidly and the engine performance goes downhill at an ever increasing rate.
When you first note this condition, you can do something for your engine with Rislone. A clean - up will give you a fresh start, and if nothing is worn too far you can get back good performance.
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Some magazine articles claim only the second owner of a car benefits from additives used by the first owner. Is that true?
Not necessarily.
Most importantly, however, is the fact that most people own cars for three or more years. Why in the world should the first owner suffer downgrading performance for all the time he owns the car? A few dollars for the right additive to solve engine problems caused by varnish, gums or carbon deposits could preserve the enjoyment and performance that he bought in the first place!
Can Rislone really increase my engine's horsepower?
Yes and no! Nothing added to the crankcase of a new engine, or one in perfect shape can add anything to power output. In the average engine, however, there is a gradual decline in power as the miles and operating time build up. Quality of oil used, frequency of oil change, frequency and quality of tune up, type of driving and the driver's operating habits all have influence on how little or how much power is lost. A little old lady driving her big bomb at 28 miles per, for two mile trips to the store a couple of times a week is the SEVERE driver. Her crankcase has water in it all the time. It's diluted with gasoline too, for the choke never comes off. And she never gets enough mileage for a tune - up. This car is a ready made target for power robbing deposits to form. Mechanically, it is not worn, but it undoubtedly doesn't run well and has lost much of its power capabilities. All of the original additives in the engine oil have been used up fighting acid build - up and other contaminants. It is difficult to explain to this lady that she is a SEVERE driver and should have her oil changed two or three times as often as her neighbor, the traveling salesman!
This is an ideal place for the Rislone treatment. In a car such as this, Rislone can bring back that lost power!
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I've heard that Rislone aids winter starting. Why?
Some oils seem to have a special ability to flow at very low temperatures. The base oil in Rislone is one of these. While its nominal viscosity is about a l0W weight, it flows at 20 below zero and a standard 10W oil will not flow. This means that your engine gets better lubrication and will start much quicker at low temperatures with Rislone in the oil.
Will a heavy weight oil increase horsepower?
No. It normally decreases power by increasing drag on the parts of the engine. We are speaking of the street auto. Race engines do use heavier viscosity oils, but operating temperatures can go as high as 250 degrees and engine clearances are much greater.
How do Rislone and Rislone Concentrate differ?
Not much actually. The same amount of solvents and dispersants are in the 15 oz. Concentrate as in the quart can of Rislone. There are 17 ounces less oil carrier. The reason for the two products is that you can add a quart of Rislone if your engine is down one quart. On the other hand, you can add a can of Concentrate when the crankcase is full. For instance, you might have a sticky valve or a noisy lifter, or perhaps the engine seems sluggish. You've got a full crankcase so you can add Concentrate and not overfill.
Are lubrication requirements the same for race engines and standard autos?
All engines should be well lubricated for good performance, but there are a lot of differences between the needs of a racing engine and a stock engine. If you consider the family car as having a quiet, economical, long life, low maintenance engine and the race car as having the exact opposite, you can see the point.
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I have an old car that smokes and has a lot of blow - by Should I use a viscosity improver (thick additive)?
That is what VI additives are for. But be sure and understand that this is a temporary fix. Shaler Ring Seal will increase the viscosity of the oil in your crankcase.
How come race oils are mostly high viscosity?
Because race engines are not set up like your auto. They don't run the same either. Race engines have greater clearances, solid valve lifters, bigger bearings, stronger individual parts, and most of the time they only go 500 miles or less between complete checkovers, teardown or rebuilding. Did you know that the average Indy car carries six or more gallons of oil to handle cooling as well as consumption? That's a lot of difference. Stick to the weight oil that your manufacturer tells you is right, and your engine will treat you better a lot longer.
Can you explain what multi-grade oil is in terms that the average guy can understand?
Well, let's see. You've noticed that a 10W-30 oil seems to pour a lot faster than a straight 30. That's because at 70 degrees it has a viscosity of about a twenty weight oil. Now if you heated that oil in an engine to 210 degrees, both the oils would pour alike. So the multi-grade is acting like 30 weight at operating temperatures, Now let's cool the oil to 0. The 30 would be stiff and thick, but the multi-grade would pour like a 10 weight. So that from cold to hot, the multigrade changes far less in viscosity. It doesn't thicken as much when it gets cold and doesn't thin as much when it gets hot. In the winter it lets you start with a 10W oil, but under operating temperatures which are only a few degrees different in winter and summer, it will have the viscosity of near SAE 30 which is best for most makes of cars. Yes, multi-grades are more useful in changing climates.
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Should I use a viscosity increaser additive in my new car?
No. Use the weight oil that the manufacturer of your car recommends. The clearances are designed to give you long life service, economy, quiet operation and low maintenance, with the right weight oil. Why foul it up? Would you add cholesterol to your bloodstream?
Do additives actually improve oils?
No. Today's oils are great. They have all the lubricity, all the film strength, all the detergents and other chemicals required to meet the demands of modern engines, including racing engines. Like anything else, however, they can be used too long. The additives wear out and the oils become contaminated; then they won't do the job. The problem is in knowing when oil is overused; and even experts disagree here. Our guess is that some conditions and some engines can wreck a fill of oil in 500 miles or less.
This is why there is a Rislone. Rislone says it treats your engine, not your oil, and this makes good sense. Why not keep your engine clean and in top shape so that good quality oil can do the lubricating job?
Why can't you tune a dirty engine?
For the same reason you can't tune a cracked violin. Seriously, a dirty engine has uneven compression readings and erratic valve action. Actually, you can tune it, but what use does it serve? You certainly are not going to get top performance. That's why we recommend cleaning up the rings, pistons, cylinder walls, valve lifters and valve train with Rislone. It does the job and does it quite rapidly. Now, you'll find a real performance improvement, provided that you have no mechanical, carburetion or electrical problems.
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What is shear, and what does this do to oils?
Shear in oil, is the tearing effect a piston would have on the lubricant on the cylinder wall. As an example viscosity improvers are long string - type polymers which tend to attach to the metal surfaces in an engine. This is why this type of material is so thick. Now when the piston races up and down the cylinder wall, it shears some of these polymers shorter and shorter. If you have ever used a viscosity improver in an old car, we are sure that you wondered why it seemed to work for a little while and then the same old smoking started up again. Shear is the reason. It has been shown that VI improvers are practically used up in 500 miles of driving. The best way to beat smoking is to get the engine fixed by a good mechanic. In the meantime, change your oil to a straight 40 or 50 weight oil. It will stop blow - by better than any temporary additive, and will cost you a lot less. You can get a whole quart of straight name brand oil for less than 50 cents.
Was Rislone actually used in the crankcase of Bobby Unser's Rislone Special that won the Indianapolis 500?
Yes it was. We hope that rules will be stiffened on this since in the past a single drop of product has been considered sufficient to earn publicity rights for some manufacturers.
How about 6,000 mile oil changes? Are they safe?
We don't think so. Even though oil doesn't wear out, it gets contaminated and additives in it are used up fighting those things they were designed to fight - like acids, rust and sludge.
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Farkonas Coil & Minick's Chi-Town Hustler, long the burn-out King of the Funny Cars runs for Rislone.
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Will Rislone work in garden tractor and lawnmower engines?
Yes. Any internal combustion engine. If you wish to prove it, pull the head on your mower engine and take a look at the cylinder and see varnish for yourself. We suggest taking a compression reading also. Then put 25% Rislone in the oil and cut your grass or run the engine for an hour. Pull the head again and you'll find that the varnish and carbon are disappearing. Other parts like valve stems and guides, rings and piston will be just as clean. If these deposits were the things that were sapping the power of your mower, you'll find that the compression has improved noticeably, the motor will start much easier and the lost power returned. There is a Rislone 4-cycle, and a Rislone 2-cycle oil made especially for lawnmower engines. The 4-cycle oil is used straight in the crankcase and the 2-cycle is mixed with the fuel. The 2-cycle oil works especially well in outboard motors and performs the Rislone engine clean - up when mixed with the gasoline.
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Does Shaler Company make any other automotive products?
Yes. Several. One is KARBOUT. This is a specialized additive for gasoline and for upper cylinder cleanout. The procedure for this product is to pour slowly into the carburetor while the engine is running at a fast idle. You turn the engine off after adding and preferably let it "soak" overnight. KARBOUT dissolves the gums that hold carbon to the head, piston tops and valves. Do not confuse KARBOUT with typical carburetor cleaners or upper cylinder lubes. KARBOUT is something else.
NOKRUST is a penetrating oil for freeing nuts and bolts. It comes in a nifty aerosol can that shoots the product straight up, down or at any angle you want. Smells good too.
RING SEAL is Shaler's viscosity improver. Obviously its use is in the crankcase to seal oil burners. It is also great for coating parts to prevent rust and to facilitate assembly. It prevents rust on screwdrivers, and is hellishly slippery on fingers, although I prefer to leave fingers and screwdrivers out of engines. Honey or molasses would make a screwdriver just as difficult to hold as does RING SEAL. It is only necessary to have a material thick enough so that the fingers cannot reach the angled blade of the driver, and you can't hang on. It just goes to show you that there are many different types of lubricants and you should know something about them to detect fact from fiction.
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Original RISLONE ... a product that PERFORMS
RISLONE treats your engine not the oil. It helps remove engine gums, varnish and sludge . . . which cause loss of power, hard starting, noisy valves, overheating and rough running. RISLONE is ideal for today's emission controlled, trailer - hauling, air conditioned cars because it promotes cooler operation and longer engine life through internal engine cleanliness and proper lubrication and better oil circulation.
Try a quart of RISLONE. It takes the place of a quart of oil, so you get the performance improvement of RISLONE for a few dimes!
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RISLONE CONCENTRATE ... all the benefits of a quart of RISLONE in a 15-oz. package so that you can add it at any time ... even to a full crankcase of oil.
KARBOUT . . . a specific additive designed to soften and remove carbon and deposits from the upper cylinder, valve heads and stems, head and piston top and rings. May be added to gasoline, or for quicker, more complete clean-out KARBOUT should be introduced through the carburetor. Helps prevent pre-ignition, knocking, leaking valves and Dieseling. Helps improve gas mileage and lowers emissions by keeping the upper cylinder area in top notch working order.
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RISLONE for specific applications ...
RISLONE High Performance Engine Treatment is based on a superior grade 40 weight oil designed for, high horsepower engines which can use the benefits of RISLONE but require a heavy bodied oil.
RISLONE for Compacts and Mini Cars is packaged specially in a 12-oz. container which is right for the smaller crankcase size, costs less than the larger sized RISLONE packages and still has the basic ingredients to provide the performance and clean engine benefits of the RISLONE formula.
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RING SEAL ... Cuts oil burning and smoke. Prevents oil from leaking past rings into combustion chamber. Prevents blow-by gases from fouling crankcase oil. One can of RING SEAL increases viscosity rating of an average crankcase by two points ... (makes a 20 weight oil act like a 40 weight).
NOKRUST . . . a fine rust preventative and penetrant. Loosens frozen parts, displaces water, lubricates. Ideal for all metal items from automotive uses to fishing reels. Special vertical squirt valve lets you put NOKRUST where you want it.
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The Shaler Company is in the heart of Wisconsin. Snowmobiling territory. So it is natural that RISLONE was one of the first oils especially developed to meet the unique demands of air - cooled, two cycle engines which must start at extremely low temperatures, yet operate at temperatures far hotter than liquid cooled engines. Both RISLONE oils feature a special ability to reduce and minimize carbon formations, plug fouling and exhaust port fouling to maintain the high performance output of snowmobile engines.
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Tune Up With Rislone
DIAGNOSING THE PROBLEM
RISLONE can be a valuable aid in the tune up of every engine. It is readily demonstrated that the addition of a quart of RISLONE to the crankcase oil will normally raise and even compression in the cylinders by freeing sticking valves and rings so that they seal better, thus improving smoothness and power. That's why it is recommended for use to assure a better, longer lasting and more satisfying tune up.
RISLONE thus can be a valuable aid in preparing the engine, but is not a substitute for worn mechanical parts or careful, knowledgeable set up of carburetor, ignition or antipollution gear.
Some hints for the do-it-yourselfer ...
1. We feel that the best way to make a car run right is to set all adjustments exactly to manufacturers' specifications. This means spark plug types, and gaps, distributor dwell, timing fuel pump pressure, carburetor adjustments, idle speed, radiator coolant, even viscosity of crankcase oil. With all these items back in shape, maximum performance and economy and long life are most likely to be reached.
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2. Try to isolate problems: electrical, ignition, carburetion, cooling, lubrication, exhaust, fuel system, valves, rings.
3. If you are going to do major work yourself, get a manual on the vehicle. It could be the best money you've spent in a long while ... and it will pay for itself many times over the first time you need it. It gives you the specs you need for performance of all I functions.
FLUID LEAKS
Today's automobiles carry oils and fluids in many places. Engine oil, power steering fluid, hydralulic brake fluid, rear axle lube, automatic transmission fluid, and, of course, radiator coolant. All of these fluids are absolutely imperative to normal operation and should be maintained in the proper condition and the correct level. Anything else would not only be foolhardy, but could be extremely expensive.
Any loss of fluid indicates a problem and the early solution is the best way to go. Sometimes fluids may be lost without spotting your driveway, so that is why the levels should be checked regularly. Radiator coolant is frequently lost only when the engine is operating, so that little if any spotting will be seen in the drive. Brake fluid can also be thrown off spinning tires so that little fluid will be noticed around the parked automobile. It's a good idea to examine the inside of the tires periodically to see if fluid or grease is showing on the wheels or tires.
Find the source of fluid leaks at once for lowest cost repairs and for safety's sake.
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What causes engine overheating?
There are several interrelated causes and to prevent overheating, you should really consider them all.
First, an engine produces a certain amount of heat in operation. The radiator, oil pan, and engine surfaces are designed to dissipate the normal amount of heat produced.
Two things can go wrong: 1. The engine can produce excessive heat . . . or, 2. There can be insufficient dissipation of heat. Either situation will cause your engine to overheat and the radiator to boil.
Remember, overheating is one of the quickest ways to destroy even the best engine, so don't run an overheated engine and get to the real cause as fast as you can.
Here are some hints that can start you in the right direction:
Check radiator coolant level when cool.
Check for leaves, bugs, paper blocking radiator.
Check hoses for leaks as well as softness which may allow them to collapse and cut down water supply. Look for contaminants in coolant. Sludge and Bluffed off material from inside of the hoses as well as rust can block the small tubes in the radiator core.
Make sure the fan belt has proper tension and is turning the fan properly. At the same time check to see that the water pump is not leaking and that it is circulating water.
Make sure correct thermostat is installed and working.
The above checks can give you a pretty good idea of how the cooling system is working. If all appears in reasonable shape, the next step will be to see if the engine is producing more heat than is normal.
First check oil level and ignition timing. Adjust to specifications. Both excessive spark advance and late timing can cause overheating. Free the manifold heat control valve, remembering that more than 20% of the heat is dissipated through the circulating oil.
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Make sure oil is of specified thickness for your engine. Too heavy an oil can be like cholesterol in the blood - it raises pressure but restricts circulation ... and that's bad news for cars or people! Because overheating builds engine deposits and varnish as it destroys the oil, and these deposits are actually insulators and make engines run hotter than normal. It is an excellent idea to change oil and add a can of RISLONE after an overheating experience. The RISLONE will absorb the varnish, gums, and deposits while the fresh oil lubricates and reestablishes the detergent and other additives that were either consumed or destroyed by the overheating of the engine.
In many automatics, there is transmission oil cooler linked to the engine cooling system. It is well to remember that an overheated engine allows the automatic transmission fluid to overheat also ... just as it is possible for a hot running automatic to influence the overheating of the engine coolant system. So . . . check your automatic fluid for proper level and color. A blackish appearance to transmission fluid indicates that the fluid has exceeded the proper safe temperature and will no longer give your transmission good protection. Change it, and monitor it for a while to make sure you do not have a transmission problem.
After an overheating experience, the antifreeze mixture will have been altered by the addition of water to the system. It is almost mandatory that you drain the coolant completely at that time and refill with fresh antifreeze and water to the manufacturer's specifications. Not many people realize that in today's rather critical engines, there is a delicate balance between water and antifreeze that provides rust inhibition as well as protection against freezing. One manual states the case this way: Maintain cooling system freeze protection at -20° F or below TO INSURE PROTECTION AGAINST CORROSION AND LOSS OF COOLANT FROM BOILING EVEN THOUGH FREEZING TEMPERATURES ARE NOT EXPECTED.
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UNUSUAL NOISES ARE Danger Signals:
*Squeaks ... a sign of dry bearing surfaces.
*Ping or knock . . . destructive heat and forces are being generated in cylinders.
*Valve clatter or tappet noises . . . indicates that hydraulic lifters are not functioning correctly or that solid lifters are not set to specs. The noises are actually metal hitting metal in the valve train ... gradually hammering parts to pieces. Could be sticking valves.
*Suction noises . . . look for leaks in vacuum hoses or hoses not properly connected.
*Heavy clunking noise . . . often rod or main bearings on the way out. Lighter more rapid tapping may indicate piston pin wear.
*Vibrating noises . . . usually indicate loose parts. Worth chasing down at once to halt progressing damage.
*Grinding noise . . . most often bearings going out. Don't wait. Investigate and correct condition immediately for your safety.
* Strange or unusual exhaust sounds . .. muffler or tail... [truncated due to length]Acquisition
Accession
2008.0001Source or Donor
James & Harriet LairdAcquisition Method
Bequest,Collected by
