Name/Title
Booklet, Shaler, Care and Repair of TiresDescription
Shaler advertising booklet. Purchased by Jim Laird on eBay. The booklet is 2 1/2' X 6 1/2"
Care and Repair of Tires
A Booklet of Common Sense
INDEX Page
Introduction 1
Proper Tire Inflation 2
How to Care for Tires in Garage 3
How to Care for Tires in Winter 4
What Size Your Tires Should Be 4
Attaching a Tire Properly 5
Why Wheels Must Run Parallel 5
Substances That Destroy Rubber 5
Effect of Rusty Rims 6
Dented Rims Injure Tires 7
Why Tires Heat in Use 7
How Tires Are Ruined by Careless Driving 7
How to Care for the Spare Tire 8
Caring for Extra Tubes 9
Tire Sleeves and Their Purpose 10
Value of the Blow-out Patch 11
Roadside Tube Repairs 11
Emergency Repairs to Casings 12
The Most Import
Physical Description: Booklet advertising Shaler Vulcanizing Products.
Extended Description: Shaler advertising booklet. Purchased by Jim Laird on eBay. The booklet is 2 1/2' X 6 1/2"
Care and Repair of Tires
A Booklet of Common Sense
INDEX Page
Introduction 1
Proper Tire Inflation 2
How to Care for Tires in Garage 3
How to Care for Tires in Winter 4
What Size Your Tires Should Be 4
Attaching a Tire Properly 5
Why Wheels Must Run Parallel 5
Substances That Destroy Rubber 5
Effect of Rusty Rims 6
Dented Rims Injure Tires 7
Why Tires Heat in Use 7
How Tires Are Ruined by Careless Driving 7
How to Care for the Spare Tire 8
Caring for Extra Tubes 9
Tire Sleeves and Their Purpose 10
Value of the Blow-out Patch 11
Roadside Tube Repairs 11
Emergency Repairs to Casings 12
The Most Important Tire Tool 13
Importance of Automatic Heat Control 15
What is Vulcanization 16
Stop That Hole 17
Perfect Vulcanizer 18
Which Kind of a Shaler Shall I Get? 20
Electric Vulcanizer for Motorist's Home Use 21
Portable Steam Vulcanizer, Motorist's Model 23
Tube-Kit 24
Ford-Kit 24
Safety Vul-Kit 25
Electric Vulcanizer for Motorist or Repair Shop 26
Portable Vulcanizers for Public Repair Shops 27
Guaranteed Repair Material 28
Guarantee Inside Back Cover
Care and Repair of Tires
A Booklet of Common Sense
Introduction
TIRES are the source of more trouble and expense than any other part of an automobile, yet the attitude of the average Motorist seems to be that they need no attention at all. A little care will greatly increase tire service, cut down tire bills and do away with a lot of trouble and annoyance.
The life of a tire should be over ten thousand miles under ordinary usage and conditions; but it is safe to say that two-thirds of the tires used are thrown into the junk heap before they have gone more than four thousand miles.
The object of this handbook is to show every Motorist how to get the greatest possible mileage out of his tires. It also shows the quickest ways out of the tire troubles that are liable to occur to any Motorist.
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Caption in box: [Proper Tire Inflation]
On buying a new car, the first precaution to be taken by the Motorist is to keep his tires inflated at proper pressure, as nothing will wear them out as quickly as running on them half inflated. Roughly speaking, a tire is properly inflated when it will stand up full and round under the pressure of the loaded car.
Novices are always afraid of inflating their tires too much, with the result that they rarely inflate them enough. They are very much in the wrong, for an insufficiently inflated tire rapidly wears out. Few hand pumps are capable of exercising a pressure of one hundred pounds per square inch, and good tires can stand a pressure at least equal to that, so there is very little danger of over-inflation.
But it is very essential that every Motorist have a tire gauge, for this is the only way in which the exact amount of pressure in a tire can be determined. Following is a table of approximate pressures for tires of different diameters:
Size Pressure Size Pressure
2 ½ in. 45 lbs. 4 in. 70 lbs.
3 in. 50 lbs. 4 1/2 in. 80 lbs.
3 1/2 in. 60 lbs. 5 in. 90 lbs.
The rear tire should be inflated 5 to 10 pounds higher than above table.
Improper inflation is the commonest cause of rim cutting.
During the first ten days they are used, tires should be frequently inflated, as the cover increases progressively in volume for the first ten days or so, and the air pressure is thus diminished. After this period, or when the cover has reached its full dimensions, it will be sufficient to pump your tires every ten days or three
2
weeks. If more frequent pumping is necessary, something is wrong, probably a leaky valve.
Of course, a deflated tire should never be driven on, as there is not only the certainty of damaging both tube and casing beyond repair, but the danger of loss of control and serious accident if high speeds are indulged in.
An entirely deflated tire is easily detected by the unusually sharp jars transmitted to the body of the car, but often a "slow" puncture is not detected until considerable damage has been done by rim-cutting. If the following is borne in mind the deflated tire may be detected before enough deflation has taken place to cause serious damage:
A deflated front tire will usually make itself known by the difference it causes in the sensitiveness of the steering apparatus. A deflated rear tire, especially if there be much weight in the rear of the car, often gives a peculiar "feel" to the steering wheel, as if the vehicle were traveling over a greasy road. The rear of the car swings about abnormally with a slight skidding tendency. When a driver feels this sensation on a good, dry road, he should immediately think of his rear tires.
Caption in box: [How to Care for Tires in Garage]
Should the car be much in use it is preferable to leave the tires inflated, but if the car is not used for some months, it is better, after having placed jacks under the axles, to partially deflate the tires. If this is done, it will add greatly to the life of the tires, as they are then bearing only the pressure of the air with which they are inflated,
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which is very slight, whereas when supporting the weight of the car, a continual unnecessary strain is exerted on the walls of the covers, and the pressure of the air in the tires also exerts more or less strain. By adopting this course, it is estimated that the life of the tires will be increased by at least half the time the car stands idle. Never allow the car to stand with one or more tires deflated without jacking it up.
Caption in box: [How to Care for Tires in Winter]
In winter it is best to remove the tires from the wheels, and after being sure that they are perfectly free from oil, water, etc., wrap them with a soft cotton cloth to keep out the light and store them in a place of moderate temperature.
Or the tires may be inflated and left on the wheel, and then wrapped in cloth, and the whole car stored in a place of moderate temperature.
Caption in box: [What Size Your Tires Should Be]
Be sure the size of the tires is proportionate to the weight of the car. The limit of weight which each size tire will stand is given by the makers of it.
The following table shows the maximum weight each tire should support. Besides this weight, each tire is capable of supporting its share of the weight of the passengers:
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Note: here in the text is a table showing the weight various size tires are designed to carry. This table is not recreated in this text.
Caption in box: [Attaching a Tire Properly]
Improper attachment of a clincher tire to the rim is certain to result in trouble before many miles are covered, as the inner tube is pretty sure to be caught between the shoe and the rim or between the shoe and a retaining stud, the result of which is the well-known "pinching." The portion of the tube near that which is caught is subjected to increased strains while in a stretched condition, and the tube will soon burst or tear at the point of pinching.
Caption in box: [Why Wheels Must Run Parallel]
Be sure that your wheels are exactly parallel to each other, ie., that they neither "gather" nor "toe in," for if they do there will be excessive wear on the sides of the tires, sufficient to wear them out in a short time.
Caption in box: [Substances That Destroy Rubber]
It should be kept in mind that tires have three natural enemies that are destructive to rubber - light, heat and oil, to which might also be added, water. Light and heat have a chemical effect upon rubber, causing very speedy deterioration. Oil, especially gasoline, is a ready solvent for rubber and will rot the tire quicker than any other sub-
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stance. Water tends to rot the canvas in the shoe, rust the rim and destroy the rubber.
It should be remembered that wet tires are cut very easily, so that it behooves one to be very careful while running a car on muddy or wet roads.
Caption in box: [Effect of Rusty Rims}
Iron rust rots canvas very quickly, and for this reason should be kept from reaching the rim. Assuming that the rim is clean, as of course it should be when the tire is first attached, it may be kept so indefinitely if proper attention is given to the wheels and the locking nut of the valve stem is kept drawn so tight that no water can work in through the hole in the rim.
If the rim has become rusty, even though merely in small spots, such rust should be carefully removed with emery cloth, and the inside of the rim given a very light coating of thin shellac. It is well to remove the tires from the rims at reasonable intervals, make a careful inspection of the inside of the tires and of the rims and correct any faulty conditions before serious harm may come from them.
Inner tubes faced with canvas, which are used with several brands of quick detachable shoes having no inner flap, should be frequently examined to see that the canvas facing has not been rusted through in spots next the rim. In case this has taken place, the facing should be removed. This is easily done by dissolving with gasoline the cement which holds the canvas to the tube. A new canvas facing should then be applied.
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Caption in Box: [Dented Rims Injure Tires]
Any dent in a rim should be removed as soon as discovered, for if the bend is inward, a greater pressure is brought upon the shoulder of the shoe at that point, and any chafing will wear the outer casing and weaken the shoulder at that point. If, on the other hand, the bend is utward, there is a chance for water, oil and sand to work in between the tire and rim.
Caption in Box: [Why Tires Heat in Use]
It is well known that on a long run the tires become considerably heated, but the cause for this is not so well known. The heating is the direct result of frictional action. It can be in a large degree avoided by rubbing French chalk over the inner tube before it is inserted into the shoe; this acts as a lubricant and reduces the friction between the two surfaces to a minimum and consequently diminishes the amount of heat generated and the amount of wear experienced.
Caption in Box: [How Tires are Ruined by Careless Driving]
Careless and inconsiderate driving cause a great deal of harm to tires. When starting, always put in the lowest speed and put the clutch very gently into engagement. Take the curves and corners at a moderate pace, and, if necessary, with the clutch out. The shock of a sudden stop or a quick start should be avoided as much as possible, not only to save the tire, but other parts of the car as well. If curves are taken at a high speed, the side strains thus created tend to tear the
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tires from the rims and skid them sideways over the road, both of which actions are, of course, detrimental and dangerous.
On wet roads skidding is practically unavoidable with the ordinary tire. A set of tire chains should always be carried. There are also several patent nonskid devices of more or less value on the market.
An important cause of wear on tires of cars that are frequently stopped in the city, a doctor's car, for instance, is the rubbing of the wheel against the curbing, which will wear out the outer covering of the rubber at the point of contact and also is liable to bend the rim and pinch the shoulder of the shoe. Running in a rut will also cause this.
Don't apply the brake suddenly, as the wheels cease rotating before the car is stopped and the tires are "dragged."
Caption in Box: [How to Care for the Spare Tire]
An extra outer shoe should always be a part of a Motorist's car equipment. But it should be thoroughly protected against light, heat, oil and dampness. Many a tire that has never been used is ruined by being carried on the car in such a way that water is collected in the tire and becomes soaked into the fabric every time the car is washed or run in a rainstorm. It is necessary to keep the extra outer shoe covered in some way, so that it may be protected against not only light, heat, oil and dampness, but against dust and chafing as well. There are, on the market, covers made especially for this purpose. It is possible to obtain very good results from a winding of rubber cloth, but the
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cover will be found much more satisfactory, all things considered, particularly in point of appearance.
Caption in Box: [Caring for Extra Tubes]
Several extra inner tubes should also always be a part of a Motorist's car equipment, and care should be taken to see that no deterioration takes place before they are put in use. To put an inner tube, uncovered, into a box full of loose tools, oil cans, etc., is only a little better than throwing it away. The tools will chafe and the oil will rot, it, so that if it holds air at all when inflated, it may soon burst under the weight of the car.
The boxes the tubes are sold in are not water or oil proof, and are not made, or fit, for carrying the tubes in, on the car. Extra inner tubes, to be carried safely should be first rubbed well all over with French chalk, folded carefully and tied, not too tightly, with wide tape. They should then be placed in a bag made of soft material, water and light proof, which has also been carefully dusted inside with French chalk. This bag should then be carried in some part of the car where it will not be subjected to heat or come in contact with oil. The French chalk will prevent chafing between the different parts of the tube and between the tube of the bag. If string is used to tie the tube, it is likely, if drawn sufficiently tight to hold the folds together so that there can be no rubbing between them, to cut the rubber and stretch it considerably at one point, with injurious results. After a tube has been carried a reasonable length of time, it is well to refold it so that the creases will come in
9
new places. A spare tire deteriorates most quickly at the sharp bends caused by the folds.
We wish to emphasize the fact that the Motorist without extra tubes and an extra casing will be obliged to stop for roadside repairs, which are a pleasant thing neither on a rainy day, when a car is used for business only and haste is imperative, nor on a pleasant day, when a trip is being taken for pleasure and enjoyment and not for experience in mending tires.
For fear that every Motorist who peruses this little booklet will not take the advice and carry extra tubes and an extra casing, and in the hope that we may be of aid to "green" Motorists, we are mentioning a few valuable members of the Motorist's tire repair outfit.
Caption in Box: [Tire Sleeves and Their Purpose]
A tire sleeve is Tire Sleeve often of much value where a cut is occasioned in the casing, as it will give the tire external support and prevent the bursting through of the tube.
In lieu of a tire sleeve it is possible to obtain the same results for a time by the use of a strap which may be wound about the tire, but the leather sleeve is more substantial. The strap or the sleeve should not be applied with the air in the tire at a higher pressure than fifteen pounds. After it has been put on, however, the tire requires to be pumped up again, and a strong, well-made pump, even if it cost a little more than seems to the uninitiated to be a reasonable price for such an instrument, will soon pay for itself in the satisfaction it gives.
It should be kept in mind, however, that tire sleeves and the like are for tem-
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porary repairs only, and that the injured tire should be vulcanized at the earliest possible moment. To quote the manager of one of the largest tire factories in the world:
"A tire sleeve does not perfectly conform to the shape of the tire; water and sand get into the injured portion of the cover and thereby rot the fabric and eventually the cover will be made useless."
Caption in Box: [Value of the Blow-out Patch]
Another very valuable device for an emergency repair of a blow-out is a blow-out patch, composed of fabric and rubber, which can be placed between the tube and the casing, to prevent the tube from blowing out through the hole in the casing. If a tire sleeve is placed over the hole, the repair is still further strengthened.
An emergency blow-out patch can be made from a piece of an old outer casing by cutting the bead from it, stripping the rubber from the tread, and beveling the ends. A piece about twelve inches long is usually sufficient.
Liners may be had which extend clear around the inside of a casing. They are valuable in getting additional mileage. Before putting in one of these, the tire should be vulcanized to keep out dirt and moisture.
Caption in Box: [Roadside Tube Repairs]
As it sometimes happens that in a single run the number of punctures is greater than the number of tubes carried, some Motorists carry cement and patches for mending inner tubes.
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A cement patch however, is a very unsatisfactory makeshift at best, and the safest and most satisfactory method of making roadside repairs is by means of a special tourists' vulcanizer that employs as fuel the ever-present gasoline. These tourists' vulcanizers are rapidly displacing cement patches, as the repairs they make are as permanent as the larger repairs made by vulcanizers of larger scope.
The method of preparation is identical with that described for larger vulcanizers. (See page 14.) Three types of tourists' vulcanizers are described on pages 24 and 25.
Caption in Box:[Emergency Repairs to Casings]
In the case of a nail puncture, the hole in the outer shoe should be covered by sticking a bit of prepared canvas to the inside of the casing.
In event of cuts which extend through the outer shoe, a strip of canvas sufficiently wide to cover the cut completely and to extend beyond on each side, and long enough to catch between the shoulder and the outer rim, should be fitted on the inside of the shoe before the inner tube is inserted. The strip should fit closely to the inside of the shoe, and it is well to attach it for at least a part of its length by using cement. The object of this strip is to prevent the tube from blowing out through the cut, and it should, therefore, be drawn sufficiently tight when the tire is attached to the rim, to form a supporting band about the tube. Of course, if one has the tire
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sleeve or blow-out patch before mentioned, they should be used.
In replacing the tire the inner tube should be rubbed well with French chalk and inserted, if possible, in such a manner that the patch will not come against the patch in the shoe, and care should be used that the loose ends of the canvas strip are securely caught between the shoulder of the tire and the edge of the rim. After a slight inflation, the tire sleeve, previously described, should be placed tightly around the tire and rim at the point of injury. A makeshift for this tire sleeve is a piece of ordinary duck, which can be wound about the injury and tightly fastened.
Caption in Box: [The Most Important Tire Tool]
Every Motorist should have a Vulcanizer, not so much for a roadside repair kit as for actual work in keeping his tires in absolutely as perfect condition and appearance as they were the day he bought them. By the use of a Good Vulcanizer any cut, puncture, tear or slit in an inner tube can be mended in a very short time, so that the mended portion is even stronger than the balance of the tube. By the use of a Good Vulcanizer, the Motorist can save seventy-five per cent of his repair bill, and get three times the wear that he ordinarily would get out of a set of tires. Think what this means. You can keep the stone cuts in your casing filled in and repaired, so that both its strength and appearance are the same as when the tire was purchased. Keeping the cuts filled in this way will absolutely prevent sand pockets and will do away with practically all blow-outs, for it is very seldom that a
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blow-out takes place in a perfectly sound portion of the tire. BEAR THIS IN MIND.
A blow-out invariably occurs where there has been a weakening of the fabric by the rubber having been cut. It is impossible for a well-made tire to deteriorate, except for the general wear of the rubber, if the fabric is prevented from rotting. And as rubber is a perfect covering to keep out these elements which will rot the fabric, namely, sand, dirt and water, filling the cuts with live rubber and vulcanizing them stops the deterioration and will make one set cf tires last as long as three would ordinarily. It will mean more to the Motorist than any other thing he can do, to go over his casings from time to time, say once a month, and repair each cut in casing, no matter how small.
The tire does not need to be removed from wheel, or wheel from car. The hole is cleaned with gasoline and sandpaper and a coating of vulcanizing cement smeared in and around the cut. The cement is allowed to dry and tile hole is filled in with crude rubber. The vulcanizer is then clamped onto the casing, after which the wheel is jacked up and air enough let out of the tire so that when the vulcanizer is snugly clamped to the tire it will conform exactly to the concave face of the vulcanizer. The vulcanizer is left in this position for thirty minutes at a temperature of 250 to 275 degrees Fahr.
Tubes are repaired in much the same way. The tube is cleaned, cemented and
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pieces of crude rubber, as nearly as possible conforming in size and shape to the hole, placed in the hole, and a final piece, one-eighth of an inch all around larger than the hole, placed over all. The tube is then placed on a shelf furnished with the vulcanizer and the flat side of the vulcanizer clamped down on the tube. Vulcanization takes place on the tube in fifteen minutes.
Thus, by spending a half hour on your tires every two weeks or so, you will be able to use them until the rubber is completely worn away, without the fabric becoming impaired in any way. In this way your tires will last you three times as long as ordinarily, and you will save seventy-five per cent of your repair bill.
Caption in Box: [Importance of Automatic Heat Control]
Some people with more or less superficial vulcanizing experience attribute to steam some mysterious quality that makes it impossible for any steam vulcanizer to burn a tire, whether moisture actually reaches the rubber or not, even if there is no thermostat or safety valve whatever to prevent the proper steam pressure from being exceeded. The truth of the matter is that the proper amount of heat, and that only, is the agent that effects the cure by combining the crude rubber and the sulphur. Outside of the convenience of operation, the usefulness and reliability of any vulcanizer, be it heated by electricity, alcohol, gas, gasoline or steam, depends largely on the ease with which the temperature can he controlled. Don't let this fact get out of your mind.
The ideal vulcanizer is one on which the temperature is automatically con
15
trolled. That is, one on which the heat regulation needs no attention whatever from the operator. Such are the Shaler Vulcanizers, each model having an automatic temperature control, as you will see the description on the following pages.
Caption in Box: [What is Vulcanization]
Vulcanization is the process of cooking or curing raw Para gum. Exactly as in baking a loaf of bread, the best results can only be obtained when the proper amount of heat is used. Therefore, the reliability of any vulcanizer depends very largely upon the ease with which the temperature can be controlled.
A vulcanizer which has its temperature controlled automatically leaves no chance for the operator to make mistakes.
Automatic temperature control is an exclusive feature of Shaler Vulcanizers. There is no watching or regulating. It is impossible to undercure a repair or overheat a tire, because these vulcanizers are adjusted at the factory to give the correct heat without any watching or regulating.
When the heat is controlled automatically, as in the Shaler Vulcanizer, every repair will be properly cured.
The different types of vulcanizers are made with a view to supplying machines that are adaptable to the most convenient sources of heat.
On the road, gasoline is always available. Where there are electric lights they naturally suggest the cleanest and handiest heat. If electric current is inaccessible, there are vulcanizers heated by steam generated by alcohol, gas or
16
gasoline burners. These steam vulcanizers have their temperature controlled automatically because in no vulcanizer can steam alone insure the maintenance of the vulcanizing temperature.
Caption in Box: [Stop That Hole]
A little hole, neglected, soon becomes a big blow-out, and often blow-outs result in serious accidents.
Blow-outs and other tire annoyance and expense can practically be eliminated by keeping your tires in perfect condition all the time with a Shaler Vulcanizer.
Like a "Stitch in time saves nine," so vulcanizing the small hole saves the blow-out later on.
These small holes expose the fabric. Sand blisters form. Water and dirt get in and rot the fabric. Then comes the blow-out - a big repair bill or more likely a ruined tire.
Stop this needless trouble and expense.
You can save your tires, save repair bills, increase your mileage and prevent tire trouble by vulcanizing the small cuts and holes with a Shaler. You can keep your tires in perfect condition until the treads actually wear through.
The Shaler is simple and easy to use. You do not have to fear overcuring or undercuring your repairs. You cannot injure your tires. The Shaler has an automatic heat control which insures the exact heat for perfect vulcanization - no more - no less.
Shaler Vulcanizers have become the World's Standard, because their principle is correct.
Credit is hereby given for much valuable information gathered from the pages of "Horseless Age" and similar publications.
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There are Several Makes of Vulcanizers, but before you buy one make sure that it fulfills these requirements of a PERFECT VULCANIZER
1. Is the heat regulated automatically?
2. Is there any danger of burning the tire?
3. Does the machine need to be watched while in operation.
4. Is the heat conducted evenly to every point of the surface?
5. Will it cure clear through a repair large enough to be of practical value?
6. Will it fit on side or tread of any size casing as well as mend tubes?
7. Do you have to be a skilled mechanic to operate it?
8. is the running expense high?
9. Does it produce a dangerous exposed blaze?
10. If accidentally upset, can it spill burning fuel?
11. Is it bulky and cumbersome?
12. Will it heat while you get the repair ready?
13. Can it be moved from one repair to another without cooling?
14. Are you buying it because it is cheap or because of its value?
Just "drop us a line" and receive a Shaler Vulcanizer by return express or parcel post. If it does not work perfectly, and does not do exactly as we have claimed, return it, and we will refund every cent of your money.
EVERY SHALER GUARANTEED
When you buy a Shaler you take no risk. Every one is sold on the lasting and binding guarantee on the last page of this booklet. A house worth half a million backs this guarantee in letter and spirit. Our national reputation has been built on this policy.
C. A. SHALER CO.
BOX A
WAUPUN, WIS., U. S. A.
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Shalers are used and recommended by the following automobile and tire makers:
Apperson
Buick
Burg
Babcock Electric
Bertolet
Chalmers
Keeton
Crawford
Cameron
Chevrolet
Crow
Cadillac
Case
Detroit Electric
Economy
E. M. F.
F. I. A. T.
Firestone Col'b's
Fritchie Electric
Ford
Garford
Grout
Grabowsky
Great Western
Guy Vaughan
Haynes
Herreshoff
Imperial
Jeffery
Kissel-Kar
Kline
Knox
Lane
Lozier
Luverne
Marmon
Matheson
Mora
Moon
Maxwell
Midland
National
Oakland
Pierce-Arrow
Palmer-Singer
Peerless
Petrel
Pullman
Rapid
Reo
Simplex
Sterling
Studebaker
Selden
Speedwell
Velie
Warren-Detroit
Welch
Westcott
Winton
U. S. Tire Co.
Hartford Rubber Wrks.
Ailing Rubber Co.
Goodyear Tire and Rubber Co.
Niagara Rubber Co.
The Rubber Tire and Wheel Co.
Neumastic Tire Co.
Pennsylvania Rubber Co.
Empire Automobile Tire Co.
Gurnelastic Tire Co.
Fisk Rubber Co.
B. F. Goodrich Co.
Iroquois Rubber Co.
Syracuse Rubber Co.
Ennis Rubber Co.
Mansfield Rubber Co.
Dayton Rubber Mfg. Co.
6,500 Miles on One Set of Tires Due to a SHALER*
Goodyear Tire and Rubber Co., Chicago, Ill.
Gentlemen - I have a 32x4-inch Goodyear Tire, Universal Rim, and have driven the car 6,500 miles and have never been delayed on the road with any trouble with my tires with the exception of one puncture which I received July 3d, 1908, and this occurred as I had almost reached home and I did not take time to repair it till I arrived a... [truncated due to length]Acquisition
Accession
2008.0001Source or Donor
James & Harriet LairdAcquisition Method
Bequest,Collected by
