Name/Title
Silent PartnerEntry/Object ID
2026.1.114Description
Silent Partner Solo Belay Device. Designed and Patented by Mark Blanchard.Use
Used for rope solo climbing.Collection
Yosemite Climbing Museum Permanent CollectionGeneral Notes
Note
Ken
I would like to loan these two Silent Partner prototypes to you for your climbing gear exhibit.
The older one is the first working prototype. It was used by Steve Schneider on his first one day solo of the Nose. It was also used by Steve on the first one day solo of the Direct NW Face of Half Dome. I have included a print and a cd containing a high resolution scanning of a photo of Steve that I took as he topped out on the nose during his one day solo.
That ascent took place before the Silent Partner was patented. The patent issued in July 1990 and expired last year (2007).
The other Silent Partner is one of three identical final prototypes. The second was dedicated to testing and the third I still use. I used mine on all of my one day solos in the valley which included the West face of El Cap, the Northwest Buttress of Middle Cathedral, the west face of Leaning Tower, the south face of Washington’s column, and the first one day solo of the NW face of Half Dome. It was also used by Paul Gagner on the first one day solo of Mt Watkins.
It is my understanding that Hans Florine used a Silent Partner on several of his record breaking speed solos but I don’t have the details.
I think it would be nice if an exhibit could include a production model as well. Unfortunately, I do not have one to offer. Perhaps someone in the Valley could loan you one.
Neither of these Silent Partners are currently working properly and they should not be used for climbing !!!!!!
So there you have it…. I hope you find the Silent Partner to be a worthwhile addition to your collection.
If you have any questions about it, please contact me.
My email is : blanchard@interbel.net
All the Best,Create Date
February 5, 2026Update Date
February 5, 2026
